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I will make the assumption that you have a surround sound or home theater receiver and start from there. There are 3 main home theater speaker setups which you will see termed 5.1, 6.1, and 7.1 channel surround. You will also see mentioned the terms Dolby Digital, DTS, and Dolby Pro Logic. Let’s dispense with the latter first: if your receiver is only Pro Logic (only older receivers at this point) you do not need to worry about 6.1 or 7.1 surround. There are some other formats such as Dolby Digital EX, Dolby Pro-logic IIx, Dolby TrueHD, DTS neo:6.1, DTS-ES, True-Surround XT, and undoubtedly more.

The two factors to consider are:

1. how many channels does your system permit, and

2. Do you want to buy that many speakers?

All the receivers that support more than 5.1 channels will also work fine with a 5.1 channel setup. Obviously, 7.1 will provide better surround sound than 5.1, but at the expense of two extra speakers. If you have a limited budget you will have to decide whether to buy 5.1 higher quality speakers, or go for cheaper speakers to allow for 7.1 channels. By the way, the .1 channel is the home theater sub-woofer. The sub-woofer is, in my opinion, really needed for home theater. A system will work without it, but I don’t recommend going without for home theater. The center channel is also very important for home theater, serving to anchor the sound to the video screen. If you go to our site by the link at the bottom of this article you can see images for the descriptions following. These are the recommended placements according to Dolby Labs.

5.1 surround system:

A). Center speaker centered on video source

B). Sub-woofer(s) in arc with the main L & R speakers between speakers and video source

C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, on an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs

D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position

6.1 surround system:

A). Center speaker centered on video source

B). Sub-woofer(s) in arc with the main L & R speakers between speakers and video source

C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, on an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs

D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position

E). Rear center 180 degrees (directly behind) the sitting position

7.1 surround system:

A). Center speaker centered on video source

B). Sub-woofer(s) in arc with the main L & R speakers between speakers and video source

C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, on an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs

D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position

E). L & R rear equidistant and on a 135-150 degree angle from the listening position.

Sub-woofer Setup

Your sub-woofer may have a switch for Dolby Digital / Pro Logic. If you have a Dolby Digital capable receiver set it to that even if you are using Pro Logic. The same goes if you have multiple inputs on your sub. If your input is labeled LFE it is the equivalent of a Dolby Digital input. You want to use the input to the RCA style plug (or plugs) if you are using the sub-woofer in a surround system.

If you have speaker level binding post inputs, these are almost always for using the sub-woofer in a non surround sound speaker setup. Preset the sub-woofer level control to about halfway before running the white noise test tone to calibrate your receiver speaker levels. You absolutely must run the test and balance your speaker levels to have the surround system perform properly.

Don’t worry about the crossover frequency control on the sub for Dolby Digital or better systems. For Pro Logic set it to the point where bass in your main speakers drops off, which will require looking at the documentation for your speakers.

If you are not using your sub in a surround system, you may, with advantage, use the speaker level inputs on the back of your sub. The advantage to this is if you have small speakers. The receiver left and right channels are connected directly to the sub-woofer, and the left and right speakers connect to the speaker out connectors on the sub-woofer. What this does is allow the sub to produce the low bass that the main speakers can not, which of course the other types of connections would do also. The advantage here is the fact that with the sub-woofer connected this way, it filters the bass out of the signal, so your main speakers never try to produce the bass that they can’t handle. This results in clearer, cleaner sound and more volume capability from your main speakers.

Sub-woofer placement is generally as below for other speakers. It is true that bass is omnidirectional and so you should be able to place a sub-woofer anywhere, but as usual this depends on your situation. I play music loud, and can detect where the sub-woofer is located by the feel of the vibrations. I find it very distracting to have the bass seem to come from the front of the room, but the vibrations of the bass coming from another direction. I therefore always prefer a sub-woofer to the front of the room.

How to get the most out of your speakers (How to improve your sound quality for no extra money )

The first consideration with a new speaker system is placement, and the second is wiring, both of which deserve consideration. We will cover wiring first with some generalities that apply to all kinds of speakers. The placement part will cover in home speakers only.

Wiring your speakers

First and foremost, wire selection can be very important. If your speakers are to be installed in-wall, you will need speaker cable rated cl3 or equivalent. If outdoor speakers, you should try to use what is termed direct burial cable or equivalent. Next, if you care about the sound quality at all, 22 gauge cable is not recommended. It can be used for very short runs, and is smaller for hiding, but due to resistance you will sacrifice some sound quality. I would recommend 16 gauge wire for most runs, unless you really want to get the best out of your speakers, in which case use 12 gauge or larger. For a long run I would recommend larger than 16 gauge. (We have a cable article and distance chart on our site at the link at the bottom.) I personally use a good audio quality 12 gauge cable myself, but you will pay more for cable this large. The advantages are better dynamics, and the amplifier can control your speakers better due to low resistance wire. As always, let the price point of your speakers determine the cable. Don’t put expensive cables on cheap speakers, and vice versa. BTW, don’t try to use romex (house wiring) instead of decent quality audio cable. Really, just say no. For so many reasons.

One common question is if fancy cable makes any difference. I must state here that many persons consider the very subject to be so much snake-oil. I personally believe that I can hear some differences, depending on the quality of the associated system. In other words, any hearable differences in cable will be more noticeable in a system with more resolution. Also consider that many listeners not selling cable claim to hear a difference. Consider any double blind tests carefully. I usually can pick holes in the logic behind most of these tests, and point out factors not considered. One perfect example was an amplifier test (by a major audio magazine) that level matched the amps, did a double blind test, and asserted the amps sounded identical, so they recommended that everyone buy the cheaper amp.

Here’s the rub: Under their exact conditions, which are not normal listening conditions, the amps sounded the same. Consider this unmentioned idea: The cheaper amp had less power output than the other, and under normal listening conditions, say with loud rock music, and inefficient or difficult to drive speakers would have pooped out before reaching satisfying listening levels, not to mention clipping and distorting from over-driving the amp. One problem with the double blind tests is, in order to be accurate, they have to control every factor in the universe that could affect the results, even unknown factors. The other is, in order to compare everything on an even playing field, they purposely diminish or nullify the differences, then triumphantly proclaim they are all the same. The perfect example from above is level matching at a volume level that does not stress the more easily stressed amp.

Polarity or Phasing of your speakers is very important. This means finding the wire with a stripe or writing on one side, and connecting that wire to either the + (red) or -(black) on the amplifier and the speaker. It does not matter whether the stripe on the wire connects to plus or minus, as long as it is the same at both ends, and on all speakers. I always connect the plus to the stripe, just to be consistent. If you get this wrong you will lose almost all your bass response, and voices will float around instead of being centered when they should be.

Home Speaker Placement

Ideal placement for best sound is going to vary with the type of speakers you have, but we can supply some good generalities. Obviously, for a surround system, you have some built in limitations. The center channel needs to go above or below center of your television, (or perhaps centered behind a projection screen) and the left and right front need to go to the left and right front. So on for the rest of the speakers. It should be added at this point that for surround sound placement the ideal is all 3 front speakers an equal distance from the listener. This actually places the front speakers on an arc. It is generally good to put rear surrounds a little higher than ear level so that all listeners get a better chance to hear all the speakers. Leaving aside the obvious details of surround sound, here is how to improve the sound of your system for free.

First, don’t put anything in front of your speakers, and if they are placed in a cabinet make sure that the front of the speaker is even with the front of the cabinet. Also, keep in mind that some speakers such as the rear ported variety perform very poorly in cabinets. Make sure speaker ports, which may be in the front, rear, side or elsewhere, are not blocked. This goes for sub-woofers also. Stability is also important, your speakers need to remain stable at high volume levels. If they move with loud drum beats, your system will be robbed of punch and impact. If you use speaker stands make sure they are stable enough for the size of speakers you have. One quick tip is to use some blu-tack or mortite putty between the speaker and stand to improve the coupling and add stability. Spikes on the bottoms of the stands work well for carpeted rooms.

Next, check out the sound of your speakers. Many speakers sound better when aimed directly at the listener, and located at ear height. This is not always the case, however. If the treble or voices sound a little too sharp, then perhaps the speakers will sound better aimed straight out instead of at the listener. Listen to the bass. Is it boomy, or lacking? If your speakers sound a little boomy, like they are in a barrel, bass response can probably be improved by moving your speakers farther from a wall or corner. If your speakers are too light in bass, they may sound better closer to a wall. Remember not to block any bass ports. If the speaker is rear ported it needs a little space out from the wall and clearance on the sides of the speaker to perform properly. One little tweak you might try: some speakers sound better with the speaker grills off. Try removing them and see if they sound better. In many cases there will be no noticeable difference, but it costs nothing to try.

Other issues: If your speakers are correctly phased as described above but voices are not sharply locked in location you may have your speakers too far apart. This generally applies to stereo, not surround sound. If not used on a surround system, the sub-woofer crossover point should be adjusted to coincide with the drop off in bass from your main speakers. You may find this listed in your documentation, usually on the order of the -3db point. If after all this your speakers don’t seem to perform like they should, you should consider whether the amplifier attached to them is up to the task of driving them. There are more issues here than power, especially impedance. An amplifier that has high wattage may drive 8 ohm speakers well, and do very poorly on 4 ohm speakers if the amplifier is not designed for “high current” or rated into 4 ohm speakers. In addition, many amplifier (or receiver, home theater amplifier, etc) manufacturers use various methods to exaggerate the wattage ratings on their amplifiers. The true rating to look for is called the RMS rating, and should be rated into a specific impedance (4 ohm, 8 ohm) etc and at a specific distortion rating.

Any information on this page may be freely copied, as long as the link below is included.

Buy home theater speakers by BIC America & Celestion

Click here for this article on our website with pictures of the surround sound speaker setup

copyright 2006-2008 Seafawn Enterprises, LLC

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Microphones have undergone a lot of changes over the years. Some designs stayed and others became a part of vintage microphones. Microphone, popularly known as mike or mic, is one of the primary elements in an audio or music system.

The main job of the mic is to convert sound into an electrical signal. It has a large number of applications as in music production system, telephone, hearing aid, motion picture production, etc.

Earlier, microphones were known as transmitters. In 1978, Thomas Alva Edison made the first commercial microphone. It was a type of carbon microphone. Later, in Bell Laboratories in 1962, a new type of capacitor microphone was invented.

There were a number of microphones which have made their marks over the last few decades. Some of the names went on to create history but now they are a part of the vintage microphones.

-Altec model 647

-American model D76

-RCA KB-1A, MI-11000

-RCA KN-3A, MI-3045

-RCA carbon type 1

-RCA model BK-7, MI-11016

-Amperite model R80L

-Bruno labs RV-3

-General Electric or Westinghouse carbon or condenser microphones

-Remler, Turner, or Jenkins-Adair condenser microphones

-Western Electric carbon transmitter model 369

-Western Electric condenser housing model 9-A

-Turner model 51D

-Western Electric carbon transmitter model 273

The History & Development of Vintage Microphones

The early 1930s saw the movie industry trying out new technology to record musical scores. However, the range of microphones offered was low. In came the MGM Studios, in Culver City, CA, to try out the newly invented cardioid mic made by the Siemens Co, Germany. It was used to make “Naughty Marietta” with the likes of Jeanette McDonald and Nelson Eddy.

Dynamic or condenser microphones were much smaller in size than the Siemens’ version of the cardioid mic. There was a constant effort made to reduce the size of the microphones to facilitate its use.

James Cannon of Cannon Electric Co. in Los Angeles, CA, was told to build up a connector for the mic. His creation was a 6 pin connector which later on became the prototype of P-type connector, which turned out to be an instantaneous success. 3 conductor connector for camera cable was made then which put Cannon plug to history from 1929 onwards.

Mason and Marshall of the Bell Laboratories made a blueprint of a tubular microphone in 1939. The design was such that it utilized a single element and acoustical tubes of different sizes. It helped in the pickup of directional music. The tubular design was the forerunner of the modern day mics.

Electret condenser microphone is a part of the vintage microphones as it has a history dating back to 1928. It used polarized wax plates. Bogen offered this type commercially under the name Voltage Velotron. The WWII saw the development of wax electret mikes. The Japanese used it in their field devices. However, they did not become very popular due to their instability.

In 1962-1965 the electret mics got their diaphragm made of a metalized thin foil of mylar or teflon. Sony, in 1968, created the then finest electret condenser microphone. That too has now moved into vintage microphones.

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for music gear, speakers, and microphones. You can find the best marketplace for music gear, speakers, and microphones at these 2 sites: music gear, equipment, speakers, subwoofers.

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You should also avoid buying cubed speakers which may cost lesser but are less than ideal as part a home theater audio system. These little black or white cubes are also less likely to be compatible with your entertainment room’s aesthetics, and you can easily find speakers that integrate better with interiors.

If you already have cubed speakers, you still can make the most of these home theater audio system components. First, ensure that these speakers are connected to their corresponding bass module connections. Then, check if each speaker level connection from the bass module is linked to the corresponding receiver connection (i.e. left rear to left rear; center channel to center channel). Also, have an RCA cable from the sub out of the receiver be connected to the sub in of the bass module.

After this, you will have to set in the receiver’s bass management all of the speakers to “Large” and the subwoofer to “Yes”. With these steps, an appreciable performance could be derived from your cubed speakers, but consultation with your dealer or the speaker manufacturer may still be needed when these procedures fail or you are in doubt of any of the connections made.

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Two front speakers and two rear speakers put you in the centre of the action. A fifth, centre-channel speaker is positioned above or below your TV. The subwoofer can be placed anywhere in the room, and delivers the low-frequency bass effects to complete the big cinema sound experience.

A surround sound system is usually completed with a “receiver” box that controls the sound for all the speakers.

To maximise your HD Television set-up choose the right audio cables to connect surround sound to your HD TV. Connections do matter.

Some cabling of the options for setting up your HD TV Surround Sound are;

- HDMI cable – The simplest and best way to connect your HD TV to surround sound, HDMI cables carry crisp, clear audio and video signals in a single cable.

- Optical cable – Transferred in a fibre optic cable, this audio signal is sent with light pulses and supports stereo to multi-channel audio transmission. Compatible with AC-3, Dolby Digital and Stereo.

- Digital Coax cable – Transferred in a single shielded cable, this audio signal is sent with electrical signals, and supports stereo to multi-channel audio transmission. Compatible with AC-3, Dolby Digital and Stereo.

- RCA cable – An analogue signal output used to transmit mono or stereo audio channels

Get even more from your High Definition TV with an audio set-up that puts you right in the middle of the action.

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i have a toshiba satellite latop, that has an S-Video connect. my cheap dvd player/surround sound/home theater system has an S-Video connect as well. the dvd player “thing” has the connection on the back. the player connects to a 1-piece amp/sub through six plugs and connects to 5 speakers through plugs off of the amp/sub. but there is no screen on the dvd player to figure how to play the music coming from the laptop. im trying to avoid connecting the system to a tv, and going that route, just trying to play music from my laptop through my surround sround system. i have the s-video cord and misc a/v cords, but connecting the two electronics through just the s-video cord does nothing, music plays through the laptop speakers still, and not through the surround sound system.

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I am trying to buy a home theater system for my basement, but honestly know nothing about them. I have a VIZIO VX42L HDTV. Its outputs are “Analog Audio out (RCA): 1″, “5.1 SPDIF Digital Optical Audio: 1″, “Headphone (Stereo Mini-Jack): 0″. ?Again, I don't even know if those are how you connect the system (for more info about TV go to: http://www.vizio.com/products/detail.aspx?pid=30). I am trying to buy fairly cheap speakers, preferably Samsung HT-TX75T (http://www.samsung.com/us/consumer/detail/detail.do?group=mp3audiovideo&type=hometheater&subtype=hometheatersystems&model_cd=HT-TX75T/XAA). The only input information listed about these is that they have 1 HDMI input. Do they have others? Is this how you find out if they are compatible? PLEASE HELP! Thanks!

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I read all manuals and I'm confused. Does Receiver plug into the T.V. or the HD box? What cables do I use? I tried the Red/White Audio cables but no luck. Am I still missing some other cable that did not come in the box?

When it comes to digital audio, you have two options when it comes to choosing cables: optical digital audio cables, or digital coaxial cables. Either of these cables will let you set up your home audio or theater system in digital high quality that will transmit audio signals in digital, rather than analog form. The quality that they provide will invariably be much better than RCA audio cables.

What Are Digital Coaxial Cables and How Do They Work?

Like other coaxial cables (for example, the cable TV cable that is connected to your TV), these cables employ the same basic principle. They have an inner conducting layer that is usually made of copper. This layer is surrounded by an external conductor along with rubber insulation that wraps around the outside of the cable. The digital audio signal travels through the inner conductor, while the outer conductor (usually an aluminium foil) prevents interference and loss.

Unlike RF coaxial cables which transmit both audio as well as video, digital coaxial cable has just one purpose only: to transmit digital audio between two components. Obviously, this single function delivers much higher quality over RF coaxial cables, while minimizing signal loss and interference.

What Are the Benefits of Digital Coaxial Cables?

Besides the much higher quality that digital coaxial cable delivers, it has several other benefits too. In the typical scenario, a digital signal from a component such as a DVD player is first sent to a Digital-To-Analog converter (DAC) that, as the name suggests, converts the digital signal to analog. This analog signal travels through the medium (i.e., the cable) to the other component (say, a TV or speakers) which has an Analog-to-Digital converter (ADC) which turns this signal back to analog. Needless to say, this double conversion of the signal from digital to analog and back results in significant quality loss.

With a digital audio cable (i.e., both digital coaxial cable as well as optical digital audio cable), the audio signal can travel through a digital medium, thereby saving the use of the DAC and the ADC. Thus, the signal can bypass the receiver and deliver a clear, high quality digital signal.

You can find such cables on virtually every modern entertainment appliance, from home theater systems to DVD players to HDTVs.

John has been blogging online for several years. His latest website is about optical digital audio cable and digital coaxial cable.

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A video card adapter is an expansion card where data such as graphical information could be extended to a monitor or projector or onto any other video display device, which allows one to view various kinds of information. This is basically what video cards are made for – to produce the output to one’s display system.

Video card or video card adapter is also known as a video adapter, or a video controller; video board or video accelerator, or graphics adapter and many others may claim different terms combining the primary features. Video cards are usually rectangular in shape; these include quite a number of contacts located at the bottom and ports that are placed on the sides to connect it to other devices.

With the help of the ever-growing technological advances nowadays, video adapters comprise of other advanced features such as the capability to be connected to multiple monitors at the same time, increased speed of television outputs, 3D scenes, video captures, and MPEG-2 and MPEG-4 decoding and a lot more elements that are now popping up on the market because of the high demand given by the consumers.Most of the video adapters at present are armed with these benefits that they are sometimes referred to as graphic accelerators. These devices contain the system called graphic coprocessors, which serve as the graphic calculators. Once plugged into a computer, these video card devices give our workstation the ability to display images. But its capability is also restricted by our computer system to a certain extent, in accordance to how it should work.

Each video card adapter could be applied in video circuits that are separate or integrated. Each of these graphic devices presents a number of video modes. Basically, these video modes could be in text mode, in which ASCII characters could only be displayed. The Graphic mode on the other hand is able to work with any image in bit-map. At lower resolutions, these images are provided with more colors, whether it is in text mode or in graphics mode.

There are two types of graphics adapter; the non-accelerated and the accelerated. The non-accelerated types are those video adapters that were made in earlier years. The video cards of these types do not have their own memories, which have the CPU of the computer busy doing all the job, and in turn renders the image to appear a lot slower than today’s video adapters. The accelerated version provides the ease of having its own memory processors, which gives the CPU the heavy burden of having to process the display system. These memory processors are also the ones responsible for boosting the capacity of the work needed to be done.

Therefore, what makes these video cards rather special are the memory that it contains to guarantee better performance and the bus in which every graphic accelerator is especially designed with such as AGP or PCI. These are add-on video cards that could be made to separate from the main video cards. Thus, high-speed buses like AGP or PCI enhances further the performance of video cards.

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I've looked in to this, and I keep seeing tons of vga > rca, cables, but I've seen only a few rca > converters. I bought one and it didn't work. Most of the other ones I saw were almost $100 (or more).

Does anybody know where I can get an rca > vga conversion cable/device that won't cost me an arm and a leg?

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I would check it against the comparibly priced Yamaha system. They seem to be doing an excellent job these days in the HTiB world.

There are a lot of choices to be made when choosing a backseat mobile DVD system.

The configuration that is most common is a monitor, DVD, and sound configuration. This is, of course, when all the different components are separate. There is the possibility of even adding wireless headphones. The set up of these systems is generally simple and they can be configured to expand.

Headrest monitors are another option you might wish to consider. These monitors are mounted on the headrest or inside the headrest itself. This type varies in size from five to 7 inches. Many vehicle manufacturers make headrests that are already made with monitors. The headrest monitors will still need to be connected to a VCR or DVD player. You will need to ensure that these two parts are compatible with each other first. For the most part, these components will be compatible. You should also have a receiver controller that will send your video and audio signal to the headrest monitors.

Would you like an overhead monitor instead? My Honda Odyssey has one. These are monitors that are mounted to the roof on the inside of the vehicle and they fold down for viewing. This positioning allows all the back passengers to view the video or DVD.

Do not forget about the all-in-one units that strap on to the back of the front seats. Because these units are self-contained, they are able to plug into your car’ lighter for power. There should also be an option for audio and video output so you can plug in your headphones as well.

Most of these players will utilize your vehicle’ own sound system. You need to make sure that your controller or head unit in the dashboard has audio input. These connections will be red and white and are called RCA connections. Some units also have the option of transmitting audio to a FM modulator. It does this by transmitting a low power FM signal to your car audio system. If your unit has this capability then you will simply turn to a specific FM channel (check your user guide for information) in order to hear the sound or audio from your player.

When choosing a setup that is perfect for your backseat passengers, there are a few different options to consider. An overhead monitor, a self-contained unit, or headrest monitors are all choices you can make.

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I’m writing this guide after being asked a few times on ways to connect a laptop to a TV. People want to achieve this for several reasons. First, it’s great for presentations at work, school, or home. It’s also convenient for viewing pictures and videos to friends, watching DVDs, and it is now even being used for viewing Blu-ray and other high definition content on the HDTV.

First, we want to make sure you’re getting the most out of your laptop when it comes to displaying it on the TV.

• If you have an HDTV with HDMI inputs, check if your laptop has an HDMI output. If it does, you’re in luck! Your HDTV can display from your laptop in HD resolutions. All you need is an HDMI cable to connect them. If your HDTVs HDMI inputs are used up already. An HDMI switch would be the best solution for you. We supply switches that can connect up to 5 different HDMI sources to 1 HDMI input.
• If you don’t have an HDMI output on the laptop, check if it has a DVI output. Some ASUS, and Dell laptops have them. If you do, you can connect your laptop to an HDTV with an HDMI to DVI cable. They are both digital cables so this will produce the same HD resolutions as a standard HDMI cable.
• If your laptop doesn’t have HDMI or DVI out, it should have a VGA output. Connecting with VGA is capable of high resolutions. However, different TVs support different resolutions with VGA. You must check the maximum resolution your TV model supports with VGA.
• Pretty much all laptops come with an S-Video output. It’s not going to be as great of a picture, but it will certainly do the job with an S-Video cable.

After you have connected your chosen cable, boot up your laptop and see if it has detected your TV. If not, you have to go into your display properties and look for the settings that will enable your TV to display from your laptop. Where to find the setting will vary depending on your graphics card (just look around). If you are having trouble getting your TV to show a picture, make sure you have updated the display drivers on your laptop. Now you’re probably going to want sound from something other than your laptop speakers. So you can choose to output it to your TV, or blast it from your home theater audio receiver.

• The best way to connect audio to your TV or receiver is through a digital audio cable. Both a digital coaxial cable or Toslink optical audio cable will work great for crisp high quality audio. Just make sure your laptop has either a digital coaxial or an optical audio output. Some laptops use the headphone jack to double as a digital coaxial (S/PDIF) output. If you use this method, your going to need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter with a digital coaxial cable. If your laptop has none of these outputs and you still really want that high quality sound. Don’t worry! You can still get an external (USB) sound card that has digital coaxial out or optical out. I recommend the Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Surround 5.1 SB1090 with Toslink Optical audio out.
• Another way, which won’t require any add-ons, is to use the headphone (3.5mm) jack on your laptop to the RCA (red and white) inputs on your TV or receiver. To do this, all you need is a 3.5mm to 2 RCA adapter with a 2 RCA audio cable.

I know all of these cables can seem confusing to you. If you’re having trouble finding out what each cable looks like or find out more about a cable, check out the Cable Guide at CableTrain.com. All of these cables are available for you on our website as well. I hope you can now successfully connect your laptop to the TV in the best way possible!

Carter Boatright from http://www.cabletrain.com

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